Meyers Wealth Management

Fee-only Financial Planning, Investment Advice and Wealth Management

50 Years of Government Spending, In 1 Graph

Thanks to NPR:

http://www.npr.org/blogs/money/2012/05/14/152671813/50-years-of-government-spending-in-1-graph

Note that if inflation comes along, entitlements automatically go up more. And if interest rates go up to deal with the inflation, interest spending could easily double or triple pretty quickly. Of the $10.4 trillion in debt held by the public, $1.6 trillion is in T-bills (paying pretty much no interest at all), and $6.8 trillion is in Notes with average maturities of only a few years, and average interest rates of 2% or less. In the space of only a year or two and the yield curve moving up by only one or two percent, our spending on interest could easily double.

If we care about any of the “everything else” – or about being able to continue to borrow at such low rates – we’ve really got to get some sane reform to our spending (and, some major overhaul to our tax system) going.  A pox on both major parties for playing these games with our economic future.

Filed under: Uncategorized

Mutual funds and managers to avoid

Some words of wisdom from Roger Nussbaum

http://www.washingtonpost.com/the-mutual-funds-and-managers-to-avoid/2012/05/04/gIQAEfIc1T_story.html

Note especially his mention, without spending much time on it, the issues of investment expenses.

Filed under: Uncategorized

BusinessWeek: 10 Strategies used by the ultra wealthy to avoid taxes

For all the silly bluster about the “Buffett rule” in Congress, the fact is that the vast majority of folks who earn a lot do pay a lot in taxes.  And the very well known exceptions – such as Buffett himself claiming to pay a lower tax rate than his secretary – are due to incentives and structures we’ve built into the tax code.  The fix for them is not adding new taxes (witness the disaster that the AMT is) but, rather, fixing the existing code.  And we have some excellent models as to how to do it.  What it will take is political will, rather than what we’ve just witnessed with the debate over the Buffett Rule, which was simply pre-emptive political campaign politics.

That all said, BusinessWeek recently posted an interesting article discussing some strategies used by the ultra wealthy to avoid paying taxes.  Some of these techniques hold lessons which are useful for more than just the ultra wealthy.  And several of them are simply about avoiding estate taxes rather than income taxes (which don’t help much when the vast majority of folks aren’t going to be paying any estate taxes anyway).  But it’s worth reading.

http://www.businessweek.com/printer/articles/20234-how-to-pay-no-taxes-10-strategies-used-by-the-rich

From the top of the article, “the 400 U.S. taxpayers with the highest adjusted gross income, the effective federal income tax rate — what they actually pay — fell from almost 30 percent in 1995 to just over 18 percent in 2008″.  Before diving into the details of the article, it’s easy to see how those numbers could be quite misleading.  Right off the top, remember that “adjusted gross income” is your income after removing only a few items.  It’s *not* the income on which you pay taxes.  There are deductions which come off of that.  So the “effective federal income tax rate” cannot really be based on AGI but rather should be based on “taxable income”.  If your AGI was $1,000,000 but donated $400,000 to charity, your taxes are based on $600,000, not $1,000,000.  If you paid 30% of $600,000, you paid $180,000 in taxes.  However, if you divide that $180,000 by $1,000,000, it looks like you paid 18%, not 30%.  Note that I’m not saying that the rich are suddenly giving a lot more to charity.  I only use this example to show how misleading the numbers can be.  I also note here that “giving money to charity” is not one of the techniques the article discusses — though that’s exactly how Buffett will be avoiding most estate taxes.  Buffett has pledged to give 99% of his vast fortune to charity.

Also, of course, bear in mind that those super-high incomes are almost certainly mostly the results of dividends and/or capital gains, not ordinary earned income.  And especially that when it is windfalls from capital gains, it’s not likely that this is sustainable every-year income – it’s usually from the sale of a company and a one-time windfall.  So before we go any further with this, please bear in mind how misleading some of the headline numbers that get published are.

Without further ado, the 10 strategies:

1. The “no sale” sale – if you have a very valuable asset and need cash, instead of selling it (and paying capital gains taxes), you can borrow against it.  This strategy can work great — if the asset keeps appreciating and you can keep paying the interest on the loans.  And it can be a terrible failure if, say, the asset goes down in value and/or you can’t keep paying the interest.  Of course, if you’re borrowing a few million against several hundred million in fairly liquid stock holdings, you’re not at huge risk.  This strategy failed miserably for homeowners, however…

2. The Skyscraper Shuffle – read the article, but it’s a tricky bit of business involving shuffling an appreciated property and a loan of similar value between subsidiaries.  Ultimately, though, it ends up similar to #1 in that the capital must remain in the new subsidiary though it may be borrowed against if the owner needs access to some of the cash.

3. The Estate Tax Eliminator – use of a GRAT to avoid estate taxes.  This works well only if (a) the grantor outlives the trust; (b) the grantor doesn’t need the money in the meantime; and (c) the assets that he puts into the trust appreciate faster than the IRS’s “Applicable Federal Rate (AFR)” — which right now is very low as part of our overall ultra-low interest rate environment (less than 3% in almost all cases).

4. The Trust Freeze – once again, avoiding or minimizing estate taxes – by putting cash into a trust and using up their estate tax exemption right now, then having the trust borrow more in addition to buy assets which are held in such a way as to diminish their effective value (ie. a partnership where the shares purchased are restricted shares).  The income produced by the assets can pay off the loan which was used to buy them.  This, again, requires that the assets either generate income or grow in value at least as fast at the interest rate used to purchase them — which is easier now than in the past because, again, we are in an ultra-low interest rate environment.

5. The Stock Option – by giving execs compensation in the form of non-qualified stock options, the exec pays income taxes on the value of the options on they day they are granted/vested, but all the appreciation that comes after that is tax-free until the options are exercised.  This is just another form of tax deferral and the up-side can be huge — if the stock appreciates a lot.  The downside can be huge, too, if the stock goes down below the strike price.  And there can be big AMT implications, too.

6. The Bountiful Loss – avoiding wash-sale rules through the use of options (puts and calls).  Regardless of the options and wash-sale trickery, this requires both (a) appreciated stock and (b) stock losses.  The investor could avoid paying capital gains on the appreciated stock by simply selling both the appreciated and lossy stock at the same time.  The options do not eliminate those capital gains.  It’s the losses.  (If you want to avoid the capital gains without having to have had offsetting capital losses, see #1 above).

7. The Friendly Partner – another variation on #2 — which ultimately is another variation on #1 – borrowing against appreciated property rather than selling it.

8. The Big Payback – permanent life insurance, especially variable universal if you want to have the most flexibility of investments – especially if held by an irrevocable trust.  Life insurance death benefits are free of income taxes.  And if the policy is not owned by the person who died, the benefits are also not part of that person’s estate.  Hence, this avoids both income *and* estate taxes.  And this is a technique available to anyone – it doesn’t require any huge appreciate property, stock option maneuvers, etc.  Just some extra cash each year to contribute to the trust.

9. IRA Monte Carlo – converting a traditional IRA to a Roth, but undoing some of the conversion on parts that got invested in things that went down in value.  This technique helps optimize the conversion by making sure that as much of the appreciation as possible takes place in the Roth rather than the traditional IRA.  Again, this is available to anyone with IRAs.  Perhaps even easier, however, is to do Roth conversions during low-income years.

10. The Venti – putting a chunk of money into a deferred compensation plan.  This is like putting money into your 401(k) but since the limits on such plans are low relative to the very highly compensated folks, there are additional plans which let them defer more income (though with certain downsides that 401(k) plans don’t have).  If you’re not already maxing out your 401(k), but have the cash available, consider doing so.

There you have it.  Several are about avoiding estate taxes and most of the rest are techniques which are perfectly accessible to anyone, not just the ultra wealthy.

Filed under: Investments, IRS, Taxes, , , , , ,

Saving For Retirement: 10 Things You Need To Know

We periodically make special reports available to our clients and others.  Please let us know you’re interested by filling in your e-mail address below.

We are currently offering “Saving For Retirement: 10 Things You Need To Know”.  The report is free.
http://www.meyersmoney.com/resources/special-reports/

 

Filed under: Retirement, Uncategorized

Morningstar article on dependent-care FSA vs tax credit

A must-read from Morningstar for anyone with kids in daycare, with a nanny, etc.

http://news.morningstar.com/articlenet/article.aspx?id=539497

In particular, there are some great examples of how much less is going to be paid in taxes one way vs. the other.

The dependent care FSA lets one put away money (through one’s employer, only) on a pre-tax basis — pre-income-tax as well as pre-payroll (SS, Medicare) tax — and use that money to pay for child care costs. Since this saves you on taxes you’d normally pay at your marginal rate, and our progressive tax system means your rate is higher the more you earn, the pre-tax FSA is more valuable the more you earn.  Up to $5000 may be put aside into a dependent care FSA account, though it is subject to the use-it-or-lose-it rules, so don’t put aside more than you know you are going to use.

The Federal tax credit for child care lowers your federal taxes (it’s a credit not a deduction) by anywhere between 35% and 20% of up to $3000 for one child or $6000 for two or more. The percentage declines as your AGI goes up, so this is actually more valuable the less you make.

Morningstar shows examples at various income rates and offers the rule of thumb that if you are in the 25% bracket (starts at $34,500 single and $69,000 joint), you are probably best off with the FSA, though it is possible to max out your FSA and still have room to use the tax credit as well, especially if you have more than one qualifying dependent.

For more information about the Federal tax credit, see IRS pub 503.  (PDF may be found here:  http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/p503.pdf

The IRS also has a “10 things you should know about the Child and Dependent Care Tax Credit” page here:  http://www.irs.gov/newsroom/article/0,,id=106189,00.html

Remember, too, that there are other tax benefits that come with your kids, from potentially qualifying for the Earn-Income Tax Credit and the Child Tax Credit (separate from the dependent care credit noted above – see http://www.irs.gov/newsroom/article/0,,id=106182,00.html — up to $1000 credit per child) as well as getting additional exemptions for dependents.  Kids can add a lot to our family expenses – so make sure to take advantage of all the benefits in the tax code to help reduce those costs.

Filed under: IRS, Taxes

Zvi Bodie, TIPs, Zero-Cost Collars and Equity Risks

Major piece in today’s Wall Street Journal, “Why Stocks are Riskier Than You Think” by Zvi Bodie and Rachelle Taqqu

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052970204795304577221052377253224.html?mod=googlenews_wsj

(Of course, Bodie and Taqqu are also hoping that this article will lead a lot of people to buy their recent book, “Risk Less and Prosper”.  Bodie and Taqqu’s own retirement plan likely hinges on profits from book sales at least as much as from their portfolios…)

Like a broken record, Bodie again says (mostly) to avoid stocks and to buy inflation-protected bonds.  I say “mostly” because they do allow for the suggestion that one may fund one’s “aspirational goals” with balanced portfolios which may include stocks (and/or options or more complex hedged funds).

What they don’t focus on is exactly how much one needs to save if one is putting one’s entire essential retirement savings into TIPs.  Given that the “real” return on them (ie. the return after inflation) is now zero – you got that – nothing whatsoever – it means that every inflation adjusted dollar you plan on spending in retirement needs to be saved today.  There is no allowance for growth.  If you’ve saved 20x your cost of living, then you will have 20 years and then be broke.  And given longevities now, we have to allow for the likelihood that retirement, especially for the survivor of a couple, may last well over 30 years.

That all said, Bodie is right in that folks often invest in stocks without fully understanding the risks.  But that doesn’t mean that folks shouldn’t have more in stocks than he’s saying, either.  He seriously underplays the risks inherent in bonds, especially given today’s ultra-low interest rates.

At the end of the article, they describe a zero-cost means of hedging exposure through a “zero-cost collar”.  If you buy SPY at $136 and you buy a put with a strike at $116 (limiting you to a 15% loss) and sell a call with a strike at $143 (which has the same price as the put you’ve bought, so the prices of the options cancel each other out), you’ve bought the S&P500 and limited your downside to a maximum 15% loss but you’ve also limited your upside to a 6% gain over the following four months.  This is a pretty good illustration of how expensive that “loss insurance” is – you limit your upside to less than half your downside.  You could limit your upside less — at a cost — by either not selling the call or selling a call with a higher strike price (and thus getting less cash to offset the cost of your puts).  Bodie makes an example of getting a higher upside by also hedging with a worse downside risk.  It’s a great illustration of some of the mechanics of equity hedging and its costs (though of course, it also ignores taxes and dividends – both of which may have substantial impact on the net result).

Bodie has also, in the past, suggested a portfolio consisting of TIPs plus buying long-dated call options on the equity market.  He suggested that, if I recall correctly, at a time when in fact TIPs had a non-zero real return and his explanation was that with the real yield from the TIPs was enough to pay for the options.  That way you guaranteed a real return of at least zero (ie. no real loss) but also bought some potential equity market up-side as well in the case that equities performed well.  That strategy won’t work now, of course, as there’s no real yield available from the TIPs to fund the equity part of that strategy.

Anyway, while I don’t necessarily agree with the advice he’s giving, especially for folks with long time horizons and any appetite for risk, I do think his article is well worth reading and some good food for thought.

And I really liked the collar illustration.  It’s something worth understanding and may be nice to actually take on its own and illustrate better for people, especially when they ask just how the annuity business can afford to guarantee limited downside — it shows the *costs* of downside limits pretty nicely (even if that’s not exactly how an insurance company actually does it).

[As usual, none of this is intended as investment advice.  This note is for educational purposes only.  Please see a professional for actual advice.]

Filed under: Equities, Fixed Income, Inflation, Investments, Retirement, Treasuries, , , , ,

IRS: Standard Deduction vs. Itemizing – Seven Facts to Help You Choose

http://content.govdelivery.com/bulletins/gd/USIRS-31e552?reqfrom=share

Worth reading the article linked to above.  When working with folks on their taxes, the question of itemizing vs. taking the standard deduction comes up very frequently.

The short story is that you should do whichever allows you to pay less in taxes.  Your standard deduction (if you are allowed to take it) effectively sets a threshold.  If your permitted itemized deductions add up to more than your standard deduction, you itemize in order to deduct the larger amount.

The details are where it gets complicated, and where there may be some tax planning opportunities, so it’s worth knowing what may be deducted when you itemize (for example, the biggies are mortgage interest on your home, property taxes and income taxes you pay to your state).  And it’s important to know what may not be deducted when you itemize (some things may not be deducted at all, and some are subject to “floors” wherein one may deduct them only to the extent that they exceed some other values so much of their potential deduct-ability may not be available especially for higher-income folks).

Just for the record here, for 2011, your standard deduction is based on your filing status, whether you are 65 or older, blind, whether another taxpayer can claim an exemption for you.  The basic amounts are as follows:

Single: $5,800
Married Filing Jointly: $11,600
Head of Household: $8,500
Married Filing Separately: $5,800
Qualifying Widow(er): $11,600

Understanding the different filing status is also worthwhile and may be the subject of another article here soon.

Filed under: IRS, Taxes

Savings Accounts

The current interest rate environment is weighing heavily on those who count on getting any kind of return on their cash and/or low-risk investments.

Treasury bond yields are at historic lows, especially at the short end of the curve.  That means that the most cash-like treasury securities – the ones which mature the soonest and which have the least interest-rate risk – yield almost nothing.  As of Feb 28, 2012, all US Treasury bonds (notes, bills) with maturities under 2 years have yields of less than 0.3%.  In a world where inflation is higher than that, this means you are losing purchasing power with every dollar that’s tied up in these “secure” instruments.

If you’re willing to take on some credit risk (chance that those to whom you’ve lent your money won’t pay you back in full or in a timely manner), investment-grade (least credit risk) corporate bonds are paying more – but not a lot more.  Again, as of Feb 28, 2012, 2-yr AA-rated corporate bonds are yielding approximately 0.64% and A-rated (slightly more credit risk than the AA bonds) are paying approximately 1.23%.  If you can afford to take that little bit of risk, there may be a place for short-term bonds in your portfolio’s lowest-risk cash-like allocation, but there’s still ultimately no substitute for true cash-like options which maintain a steady value and have high liquidity.  The traditional two things used for that are money-market mutual funds and FDIC-insured bank savings accounts.

Money-market mutual funds, which have to invest in the highest quality shortest term bonds are yielding under 0.11% (even in the ones which are waiving all or part of their expenses).  In a more normal interest-rate environment, these are a great way to access market rates of interest with minimal risk.  Right now, though, the payoff is quite small.

So the remaining alternative is traditional bank savings accounts.  And if you walk into your local brick-and-mortar bank, the rates are likely to be about as meager as the money-market funds.  However the online banks (or online accounts for some more traditional banks) are offering a much better deal.

As of Feb 28, 2012, the following banks are offering the following yields on their FDIC-insured savings accounts:

Ally Bank — 0.84%
EverBank — 0.76%
AmericanExpress — 0.75%
ING Direct (recently bought by Capital One) — 0.80%

We’ll try to update this list periodically and welcome any feedback.  If you know of another good savings bank deal out there, please let us know.

Filed under: Cash, Fixed Income, Inflation, Investments, Treasuries

Morningstar answers a reader’s question about UGMA accounts

http://news.morningstar.com/articlenet/article.aspx?id=537628

Question: I set up an UGMA for my daughter as a way to help save for college, but now I read that the money in the account could hurt her chances of getting financial aid. Can I cash out the account or move the money to a different type of college-savings plan?

If you can access it, we recommend reading the answer on Morningstar’s site, linked to above.

This is one of the first questions that Meyers Wealth Management addressed when we first started posting News and Notes.  Over time, we’ve noticed that the News and Notes article about UGMA/UTMA accounts has actually been one of the most popular pages on our website – which surprised us.  Nevertheless, these accounts are still around.  As we noted in our article, they were very popular about a generation or so ago – parents of kids born in the 60s and 70s often set them up – and so now many of those kids of the 60s and 70s, either remembering what their parents did, or at the urging of those (now) grandparents, have gone and set up these same UGMA/UTMA accounts, often without realizing that the benefits which they offered so long ago are no longer as valuable as they were, and that there are often far better alternatives available today which were not available then.

Here’s a link to the article we posted back in October 2009:  http://meyersmoney.com/news_and_notes/ugma_utma_and_529_plans.html

The short story is this: (a) a UTMA/UGMA account is an asset of the child – it belongs to the child and the parent is only acting as a trustee for the benefit of that child — and when the child reaches a certain age, the child (now an adult) may spend it any way he or she likes; (b) UTMA/UGMA accounts may not offer much in the way of tax advantages due to changes in the “kiddie tax” rules; (c) if you are applying for college financial aid, the contents of the UTMA/UGMA account are counted differently from assets owned by the parents – less favorably, in fact, since they are considered, again, asset of the child and not of the parents.

That all said, if you already have assets in such an account, you have only a few, limited options.  You cannot simply take the money back – it’s not yours anymore – it belongs to the child – and there are rules regarding what the money may be spent on.

And there are alternatives – from 529 plans to simply keeping the money in your own accounts (especially if you haven’t maxed out your retirement accounts).

Lastly, if someone recommends buying cash-value life insurance instead, while there may be circumstances where that makes sense, be very careful – usually such policies are great deals for the person selling them, so there is a dangerous conflict of interest here, and they are certainly not the best choices for everyone.

If you are saving for college and are considering (or already have) a UTMA/UGMA account, make sure to read these articles and understand the implications.  And if you have any questions, please consider consulting a professional financial planner.

Filed under: 529, Education, Investments

RMDs – If you turned 70-1/2 in 2011…

RMDs – always a messy topic – are usually a year-end problem.

RMDs are Required Minimum Distributions which have to be taken from various retirement accounts once you reach a certain age.  If you were given the opportunity to make tax-deferred savings over your lifetime, it’s time to start paying the piper.  And for most folks, that time begins in the year in which you turn 70-1/2  (no, really – and a half).

Starting in the year in which you turn 70-1/2, and every year after that, you need to take a distribution by the end of that year.  So if you’re 75, you need to take an RMD by December 31.

There’s a one-time exception.  Normally, the RMD must be taken by December 31 — except for your very first RMD which you may take as late as April 1 of the following year.  So if you turned 70-1/2 in 2011, instead of having to take your 2011 RMD by Dec 31, 2011, you get to postpone it until April 1, 2012 (and thus have any taxable income attributed to the RMD come in your 2012 tax year).

So if you turned 70-1/2 in 2011 (meaning you were born between 7/1/1940 and 6/30/1941), and you haven’t already taken your first RMD, you need to do so soon.

The RMD is calculated based on the year-end balance of your IRA from the previous year and your age on your birthday of the year to which the RMD applies.  So a 2011 RMD is based on your age in 2011 and your Dec 31, 2010 balances.

And if you postponed your 2011 RMD to early 2012, you’re going to take TWO RMDs in 2012 – your 2011 one by April 1, and your 2012 RMD by December 31.

Don’t blow this.  The penalty for taking too little of an RMD is 50% of the amount which you had to take but didn’t.  If your RMD was supposed to be $20,000 but you only took $10,000, you’re still going to have to take that second $10,000 (and probably pay income taxes on it) and then you’ll owee $5000 as a penalty.

Some things to help figure this out:

Links to a pair of worksheets for calculating RMDs (they are different if you are married and your spouse is your sole beneficiary and your spouse is more than 10 years younger than you):  <http://www.irs.gov/retirement/participant/article/0,,id=188023,00.html>

And, of course, IRS Pub 590: <http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/p590.pdf>

And finally, the IRS FAQ about RMDs: <http://www.irs.gov/retirement/article/0,,id=96989,00.html>

Filed under: Uncategorized

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Disclosure

Internal Revenue Service Circular 230 Disclosure. Please note that any discussion of or advice regarding United States tax matters contained herein (including any attachments hereto) does not meet the requirements necessary to be a "covered opinion" as defined in Internal Revenue Service Circular 230, and therefore, is not intended or written to be relied upon or used and can not be relied upon or used for the purpose of avoiding federal tax penalties that may be imposed or for the purpose of promoting, marketing, or recommending any tax-related matters or advice to another party. Past performance of investments are not a guarantee of future performance. All content here is meant for educational purposes only and is not intended as specific or personal investment advice.
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